Learn How to Plant Bare Root Trees Successfully

Understanding Bare Root Trees and When to Plant Them

Bare root trees are young trees sold without soil around their roots. Instead of being planted in a container or wrapped in burlap, the roots are exposed to air and typically wrapped in plastic or burlap to keep them moist during shipping and storage. This method of selling trees has been used for over a century and remains popular because bare root trees cost significantly less than container-grown trees—often 30% to 50% cheaper. A bare root tree that might cost $25 to $35 can perform as well as a container-grown tree costing $60 to $100.

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Bare root trees are generally available from late fall through early spring, during the tree's dormant season. This timing is crucial because trees are not actively growing, which means they can tolerate being dug from nurseries and transported without active foliage to maintain. The exact timing varies by region. In colder climates, bare root trees are typically available from November through March. In warmer zones, the window may extend from December through February or even later, depending on local frost dates.

Common bare root trees include deciduous varieties such as apple, pear, cherry, and plum trees, as well as ornamental species like maple, oak, birch, and ash. Many shade trees and fruit trees are sold bare root, though not all tree species are available in this format. Evergreen trees, which don't go fully dormant, are rarely sold bare root because they are more difficult to establish without soil protection around their roots.

The advantage of planting bare root trees extends beyond cost savings. Research from universities including Oregon State University has shown that bare root trees often establish faster than container-grown trees because their roots make direct contact with native soil. When roots touch soil without a container barrier, they spread more naturally and develop stronger anchorage. Studies tracking growth over five years found that bare root trees frequently caught up to or surpassed container trees in size and vigor by year three or four.

Practical Takeaway: Bare root trees offer excellent value and often establish well when planted correctly. Mark your calendar for late fall or early winter in your region to source bare root trees before peak demand depletes nursery inventory.

Preparing Your Planting Site and Soil

Before bare root trees arrive, thorough site preparation is essential. Begin by selecting a location that receives appropriate sunlight for your chosen tree species. Most fruit trees require 6 to 8 hours of direct sun daily, while shade trees like maples and oaks typically need 4 to 6 hours minimum, though many perform better with more light. Ornamental trees vary widely; some flowering varieties like dogwood prefer dappled shade, while others thrive in full sun. Check the specific requirements for your tree species from the nursery documentation or a local extension office.

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Test your soil if possible. Bare root trees establish best in soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0 for most species, though some trees prefer slightly acidic or alkaline conditions. You can purchase an inexpensive soil test kit from a garden center or send a sample to your local cooperative extension office for detailed analysis. The test will reveal pH, nutrient levels, and soil composition, helping you make informed amendments before planting.

Soil composition matters significantly. Trees prefer well-draining soil that doesn't stay waterlogged. If your soil is dense clay, plan to amend it. You don't need to change the entire planting hole—a common myth suggests creating a perfect planting hole, but research shows trees establish better when roots gradually encounter native soil. Instead, amend the soil you'll return to the hole by mixing in 20% to 30% compost or aged bark. This improves drainage while avoiding the "bathtub effect," where amended soil in the planting hole drains differently than surrounding native soil, causing water to pool around the roots.

Dig your planting hole two to three weeks before receiving bare root trees if possible. The hole should be wide enough that roots spread naturally—typically 2 to 3 feet in diameter—and deep enough so the tree's root collar (where roots meet the trunk) sits at ground level or slightly above. Remove rocks, clay clods, and debris from the hole. If you cannot dig in advance, prepare the site the day before planting to allow time for soil to settle slightly.

Practical Takeaway: Choose a sunny location appropriate for your tree species and dig a wide, shallow hole rather than a deep one. Amend heavy clay with compost, but avoid creating a soil pocket drastically different from surrounding soil.

Receiving and Storing Bare Root Trees Before Planting

Bare root trees should be planted as soon as possible after arrival—ideally within a few days. However, if weather conditions are poor or you're not ready to plant, trees can be temporarily stored. When your trees arrive, inspect the packaging immediately. Roots should feel moist and flexible, not dry or brittle. If roots are dry, soak the entire tree in a bucket of water for 2 to 4 hours before storing or planting. This rehydrates the roots after their journey and prepares them for establishment.

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For temporary storage lasting less than two weeks, keep bare root trees in an unheated garage, shed, or sheltered location where temperatures stay between 32°F and 50°F. Keep roots moist by wrapping them in damp burlap, newspaper, or plastic. Do not store trees indoors in heated spaces, as warmth may cause buds to break prematurely, wasting stored energy. Check moisture every few days and mist roots if they begin drying out.

If you cannot plant for more than two weeks, "heel in" your trees temporarily. This involves digging a shallow trench in a sheltered location and laying trees at an angle with roots covered in soil. Water thoroughly to settle soil around roots. Trees can remain heeled in for several weeks through winter. When you're ready to plant, carefully remove them and proceed with normal planting procedures. This technique is commonly used by commercial orchardists when large shipments arrive before ideal planting weather.

Inspect trees when they arrive and watch for signs of damage. Bark should not be peeling or cracked along the trunk. Branches should bend slightly without snapping. Roots should have a light tan to white color; dark brown or black roots may indicate rot. Report damaged trees to the nursery immediately—reputable growers will replace trees damaged in transit. Never plant a tree with significant root rot or bark damage, as it's unlikely to establish successfully.

Practical Takeaway: Soak dry roots upon arrival, store trees in a cool location with moist roots if you cannot plant immediately, and inspect for damage before committing to planting.

Proper Planting Technique and Root Positioning

Successful bare root tree establishment begins with correct planting technique. Remove the tree from its wrapping just before planting. If you've soaked the roots, let excess water drain briefly but keep roots moist. Look for the root collar—the point where the main roots begin to spread outward from the trunk base. This should be at or slightly above ground level when planted. Burying the root collar leads to rot and disease; planting too shallow exposes roots to air and drying.

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Create a small cone or mound of soil in the center of your prepared planting hole. This cone gives you something to drape roots over, helping them spread naturally. Position the tree so its root collar is at the proper height, then spread roots radially over the mound, like spokes on a wheel. Roots naturally grow downward and outward; by spreading them, you encourage them to establish faster and develop better anchorage. Avoid circling roots around the planting hole or cramping roots into bundles, as this leads to girdling—when roots circle the trunk and eventually strangle growth.

Begin backfilling with your amended soil, working it between and around roots carefully. Use your hands rather than a shovel initially to eliminate air pockets without compacting soil. When the hole is half full, gently water to settle soil and fill remaining air spaces. Finish backfilling and create a small basin around the tree's perimeter to hold water during establishment. The planting basin should be 2 to 3 feet in diameter for young trees, extending to the drip line for larger trees.

Water thoroughly after planting. Young bare root trees need consistent moisture for the first growing season—roughly 1 to 2 inches per week through rain and supplemental irrigation